Bhutan -3 : Chele La

Woke up to a cloudy morning. The fabled Chele La was waiting for us.  Famous for the brilliantly coloured pheasants, it is the highest motorable road in Bhutan. Word was that we might come across some snow. Packed bread and jam for breakfast and the flask was full with hot tea.

       Pema drove through the hamlets leisurely. The apple trees were all flowers with shades of white and pink and not a single leaf was to be seen. Soon the vegetation gave way to the pine trees with occasional shrubberies. Spotted the first Kalij pheasant right in the middle of the road just after a sharp curve. How I cursed the front  glass of the vehicle !!  Majestically, it disappeared into the bushes leaving the shutterbug utterly dejected. Came across another 3 individuals at least with the same payoff.

         Approaching the pinnacle, the lanky trees were all gone and only some shrubs remained here and there. The paleolithic-like trees on the background of the Himalayas appeared formidable.  Half an hour later, we were enjoying the gentle breeze at the top surrounded by the prayer flags. The sacred Jomolhari peaks could be seen in all its glory.  Fortunately or unfortunately, snow was absent.  Leaving the family to enjoy the serenity, ventured into the thorny bushes. Soon, came across a flock of spotted nutcrackers vociferously feeding on some left overs by the tourists. An individual gave me fair enough pose. Nearby, a spotted grosbeak with its magnificent greenish yellow and black colours caught my attention. The diminutive bird was foraging on the ground.

         Got back to the vehicle to have some hot tea and bread. Pema decided to fast since he didn't have the luxury of  noodles or fried rice there.   Nearby, a clattering song denied me any more leisure and rushed to spot a warbler which was identified later as the buff-barred warbler. Scanned the entire areas for the blood pheasants and the satyr tragopans. Not a movement. A collared blackbird was seen pecking near the waste bin unmindful of the tourists. Pema offered some encouraging comments since disappointment was writ large on my face.

         The descent was quite slow.  A small blue bird scurried through the bushes. Followed the bird on barefoot and soon it proved to be a Himalayan bluetail. An olive-backed pipit was sitting cosily on top of a pine tree. Far away, a couple of upland buzzards were engaged in some mating rituals.

         Further down, stopped the vehicle for some smaller birds. Came across a hunting party consisting of rufous sibias, gould's sunbird, ultramarine flycatcher, different types of tits, a flock of white-browed fulvettas etc..

          Lunch at Paro was delicious.  Visited the National Museum after a short nap. Some kind of construction work was going on there. But, everything was so neat and orderly that we enjoyed every second out there. The museum holds a good collection of bird specimens and narratives about common birds. After a short lesson on history, got out to have a look at the Paro river.

            I was expecting to find the elusive ibisbill which was reported to be very common here. Couldn't spot any ibisbill. But, came across a brown dipper actively feeding.  The same spot yielded a white wagtail and a little ringed plover in breeding plumage.

           Retired to the rooms to have an early sleep after the dinner since the next day we were going to conquer the finest tourist attraction in Bhutan.

Bhutan - 2 (Pheuntsholing to Paro)

'Kuzuzangpo-La' ... greeted Pema  .  Leaving Smitha and kids to have some more breather, Pema and myself kicked off for some birding.  The town was slowly coming to life in the penetrating cold and any possibility of having some black tea was gone in a flash.   Took the main road towards Paro and thus began our bird watching in the alien country.  The hoots of the Asian Barred owlet from somewhere in the teak plantation were reverberating in the valley.  Took a sharp turn and was stunned to see a big black bird hurrying across the road. Never expected a Kalij pheasant right here at Pheuntsholing.  All through our road trip, this magnificent pheasant which looks akin to some pre-historic creation denied me a good look for the shot.

 By now, Pema got curious and  suggested some rustic areas.  Parked the vehicle near a small bridge as I spotted some commotion in the bushes. Turned out to be a lucky brown shrike  followed by a couple of lesser necklaced laughingthrushes  which gave good enough views.  Soon, a spangled drongo, the most magnificent of all drongos swooped right before me. A couple of green-billed malkohas, one of the most difficult birds to spot and photographed emerged out of nowhere and I was bowled over.

  Returned the hotel after couple of hours and by then, all were ready and raring to go out.  At 10, Pema led us to the immigration office to get the visiting permits . The whole procedure lasted only half an hour . For Indian travelers, passport or visa is not mandatory.  Produce the electoral ID and you’ll be granted the permits which you’ve to keep till your journey concludes.

 Ordered rice and curry for lunch and went for some shopping. Phuentsholing is the best place to do some shopping in Bhutan. If you’re expecting any indigenous memorabilia from here, you’re in for a rude shock.  All these goods are imported from India and they will cost you dearer in Bhutan.  Even the Budhist statues are coming from New Delhi. Further East, the goods will be costlier and you wont have much choice. Post lunch, bid farewell to Tshering, Pema's betterhalf and  started our long journey towards Paro.   Poor Pema was denied any music while on the move, as I was all ears for any winged beauties. The sharply curved roads got us quickly out from the buzzing little town. The valley below was beautiful.



As we gained height, the scenic beauty became more and more bewitching. Our method was to look for the birds while on the move and upon detecting some movement, Pema will take some respite and I'd take some detours.  En-route, a clownish looking whiskered yuhina was so confiding that I had to move back a little to catch it in the frame. Couple of silver-eared mesias were foraging down below.. but, already it was getting late . An ashy drongo looking like a lone sentinel patiently allowed me some shots while a naughty black bulbul with all its gimmicks was trying to disturb it.  The magnificently coloured verditor flycatcher, the straiated bulbul, the black-faced tit - all of them heeded kindly to the pleading eyes of the photographer.

  

 










 As darkness creeped in, we reached the city of Paro which holds the only international airport in Bhutan. The Paro Dzong , bathed in exquisite colours was truly breath-taking .  Chele-La, our next day's destination could be seen from the hotel window. The dark woods were promising a lot. (- continued - )...

Bhutan - 1 (Baghdogra to Pheuntsholing)

 The land of dragons!!.. well well well !! Tucked between towering mountains, this small and beautiful neighbour with a happy heart became quite an obsession - thanks to the multitude of experiences shared by my good friends.. So, one fine morning, in April 2015, we embarked on an odyssey that would forever change our perceptions about the mountain kingdom. 

        As our flight from  Chennai to Bagdogra was announced, I rang Mr.Pema, who was supposed to be our guide cum driver for the entire tour.  “Bizhuji, don’t worry. I’ll be there’  came the assuring retort from the other end.  Landed Kolkata on time. But, then came the annoying news that our flight towards Bagdogra will be late by atleast 3 hours.  Pema was using a Bhutanese SIM which would be of no use in Indian territory.  There was no way I could pass on this latest development to our friend as he must have already crossed the borders to reach the airport.   Boarded the flight at 3.15pm and the next 45 minutes were quite difficult as our entire scheme of things revolved around this one person, Mr.Pema.

    At last, after a delay of about 3 hours, we touched the ground at 4 in the evening.  Fearing the worst, frantically searched for Pema at the visitor’s lounge.  Heaved a sigh of relief as I got the glimpse of the recognizable  face waiting expectantly for us.  The handsome chauffeur smiled in acknowledgement as I waved at him. Collected the luggage and there we were …  hitting the roads towards the mighty Himalayas …  to the world of happiness.  Pema was jovial and at once the kids began to relax with him.

     By the time we reached the famous Cornonation Bridge which connects Siliguri and Jaipalguri districts, it was dark and Pema began to accelerate ..   Stopped the vehicle for food at a wayside eatery.  A huge painting of His Majesty, the King of Bhutan Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk  and his beautiful lady love adorned the wall. Little did we know that we were to see this picture in almost all the places that we would venture. While the man at the counter and Pema were renewing their acquaintanceship, food was served.  Food was palatable and after a bumpy ride, reached Jaigaon at 9.30.  Soon, we were in front of the famous Pheuntsholing Gate, a gargantuan gate reminding us the mightiest forts in some Hollywood films with two huge dragons adorning the centre.   The Bhutan taxi took us inside.  The transformation was dramatic. Gone were the din and buzzle just a few yards away at the other side of the impressive wall.  The immaculately paved ways with ornamental lamps were a sight to behold.

 Occupied a cosy-looking room.  Tired after a long and wearisome  journey, everybody was in a hurry to hit the bed.  But, here was an opportunity for me to take a nocturnal shot of the massive doorway.  Soon, took off with the tripod and camera.  The place was almost deserted.  Unaccustomed to the use of tripod, took some time to sort everything out.  With smirking faces, the guards watched the entire proceedings with some amusement.