Bhutan -3 : Chele La

Woke up to a cloudy morning. The fabled Chele La was waiting for us.  Famous for the brilliantly coloured pheasants, it is the highest motorable road in Bhutan. Word was that we might come across some snow. Packed bread and jam for breakfast and the flask was full with hot tea.

       Pema drove through the hamlets leisurely. The apple trees were all flowers with shades of white and pink and not a single leaf was to be seen. Soon the vegetation gave way to the pine trees with occasional shrubberies. Spotted the first Kalij pheasant right in the middle of the road just after a sharp curve. How I cursed the front  glass of the vehicle !!  Majestically, it disappeared into the bushes leaving the shutterbug utterly dejected. Came across another 3 individuals at least with the same payoff.

         Approaching the pinnacle, the lanky trees were all gone and only some shrubs remained here and there. The paleolithic-like trees on the background of the Himalayas appeared formidable.  Half an hour later, we were enjoying the gentle breeze at the top surrounded by the prayer flags. The sacred Jomolhari peaks could be seen in all its glory.  Fortunately or unfortunately, snow was absent.  Leaving the family to enjoy the serenity, ventured into the thorny bushes. Soon, came across a flock of spotted nutcrackers vociferously feeding on some left overs by the tourists. An individual gave me fair enough pose. Nearby, a spotted grosbeak with its magnificent greenish yellow and black colours caught my attention. The diminutive bird was foraging on the ground.

         Got back to the vehicle to have some hot tea and bread. Pema decided to fast since he didn't have the luxury of  noodles or fried rice there.   Nearby, a clattering song denied me any more leisure and rushed to spot a warbler which was identified later as the buff-barred warbler. Scanned the entire areas for the blood pheasants and the satyr tragopans. Not a movement. A collared blackbird was seen pecking near the waste bin unmindful of the tourists. Pema offered some encouraging comments since disappointment was writ large on my face.

         The descent was quite slow.  A small blue bird scurried through the bushes. Followed the bird on barefoot and soon it proved to be a Himalayan bluetail. An olive-backed pipit was sitting cosily on top of a pine tree. Far away, a couple of upland buzzards were engaged in some mating rituals.

         Further down, stopped the vehicle for some smaller birds. Came across a hunting party consisting of rufous sibias, gould's sunbird, ultramarine flycatcher, different types of tits, a flock of white-browed fulvettas etc..

          Lunch at Paro was delicious.  Visited the National Museum after a short nap. Some kind of construction work was going on there. But, everything was so neat and orderly that we enjoyed every second out there. The museum holds a good collection of bird specimens and narratives about common birds. After a short lesson on history, got out to have a look at the Paro river.

            I was expecting to find the elusive ibisbill which was reported to be very common here. Couldn't spot any ibisbill. But, came across a brown dipper actively feeding.  The same spot yielded a white wagtail and a little ringed plover in breeding plumage.

           Retired to the rooms to have an early sleep after the dinner since the next day we were going to conquer the finest tourist attraction in Bhutan.